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India: Kolkata

Tale of my brief, awe inspiring visit of the giant, bustling, jovial, contrasting and cultured capital of West Bengal

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Kolkata (Calcutta)

Arrival

Took the leisurely early flight from Port Blair to Kolkata.
As soon as the taxi ventured from the airport, it was total chaos; different kind to Delhi and Mumbai. Kolkata makes those cities seem spacious, clean, and sweetly aromatic.
Having said that, once you delve into this city, you realise it's a truly amazing, friendly, vibrant, artistic, jovial and colourful place!

Plush Lodgings

I treated myself to 'Chrome', touted as a boutique 4 star hotel (AUD$80 per night). I would say the service is better than 5* hotels that I have been to. Nothing was too much trouble for the young hip staff.
This hotel has won several design awards and I can see why - gorgeous, cool and ultra functional. The shower hits you vertically and horizontally!!

It felt super luxurious to have a proper hot shower, watch back to back movies, have a super comfy bed with quality linen, order proper western room service, have 0 noise pollution, and check out after 10am!

Exploring Kolkata

Yes, OK, the poverty in Kolkata is right in your face. More so than any other city I have seen, ever.
Like all Indian cities, the duality of rich and poor is staggering - but Kolkata is on a completely different scale.
Heavily guarded Rolex and Gucci stores, with young mothers and street kids sitting outside. This kind of thing was everywhere.

However, I barely came across any begging and everyone street-side was busy - making food (or joyously consuming), selling wares, washing cloths, carting stuff around, hawking, etc.
Kolkata is all hustle and bustle and I met nice folks everywhere I went. Shop assistants to internet cafe attendants were all keen for a chat.

I ventured to Park St first. Nice restaurants, plenty of book stores, etc and walked around.

Busy Park St, full of those indestructible Ambassador cabs:
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I then walked around relatively aimlessly for two hours, it relative awe.
I like museums and temples, but only in small doses. When I travel, the most interesting thing to me is walking around and experiencing the day to day. Kolkata is the most fascinating city in India for that!

I caught up with my buddy Ryan who was on his way to Nepal.
We went to the super busy New Market area in search of some Thai food (to no avail), and then to Victoria Memorial. This St Paul's like building is set within a gorgeous park, reminiscent of a mini Regent's Park (London).

Spiderman watches over New Market:
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There was some kind of festival happening that we couldn't really figure out.
On stage, a wonderful group of musicians played traditional Indian music with soaring vocals and intricate tablas. These performances were interspersed with long lectures (I think in Bengali), presumably on spirituality.
Surrounding stage and seating, were different and interesting stalls - one bookshop selling only communist works (mostly Chinese and Cuban), whilst some sold religious texts, etc.

===Thanks Kolkata, it was a pleasure==
It was a short, fun, interesting and eye opening visit to Kolkata.
I was initially deterred from visiting West Bengal's capital, but so glad I did.

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Off to Darjeeling now for some mountain ramblin', whoohooo!

You can see all my photos from Kolkata here

Posted by SkinnyFists 16.05.2012 01:48 Archived in India Tagged indiakolkata Comments (0)

India: Andaman Islands

Herewith a tale of a jungle-tastic, blue watered, super relaxed, sociable haven!

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Port Blair

I flew Mumbai to Chennai and then on to Port Blair.
I had planned to head straight to Little Andaman or Havelock, however all ferries were booked out, so booked for the next day.
Port Blair is a nice, small, bustling friendly town, though you can't swim anywhere near it!

On my way to the ferry bound for Havelock, I stopped at a cafe. Some older local dudes wondered if I was Indian, and even after I explained my gora-ness, they offered to share their samosas with me.
People on the Andamans are very relaxed festive and friendly people - this was my experience across all islands!

Port Blair:
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Havelock Island

It was roughly a 2 hour ferry ride to Havelock from Port Blair, stopping at Neil Island on the way.
At Havelock I found Blue Bird Huts, which was the cheapest (and actually nicest) air conditioned option on beach 5.

Havelock Port:
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Beach 7 BLISS

I hired a bicycle and rode the hilly 12kms to Radhanagar Beach (Beach 7).
The ride is hard, but great fun. Kids want you to stop to take photos every once in a while and everyone waves.
You cycle past lush green fields, farms, an occasional temple and family homes.
If I return to Havelock, i will get a scooter though - the hills are tough.
The beach itself is AMAZING. White sand, crystal clear blue calm water, with lush jungle behind.
Some poll out there calls this the best beach in Asia. I think that is going a bit far - Nai Harn in Thailand wins that one for me, but this is a close contender.

Beach 7 entrance:
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Diving

The Andamans are known for their amazing dive sites, and they do not disappoint.
I did my advanced open water with Barefoot (probably one of the best, social and professional companies I have dived with) and did 5 unique and spectacular sites including a wreck (50 metre length sunk coal ship), coral wall, night dive (octopi galore, schools of trevali, glowing plankton) bommies, etc. The sea life is rich and varied, and the surrounding islands are gorgeous!
On our first day we saw a massive leopard shark, and the last we had the largest manta ray I have ever seen circle around us for most of our dive.

The Andaman Islands attracts divers from all over the world, and I met a large international contingent of buddies to dive and hang with.

Chilled, Social Havelock

The Andamans are undeveloped, with hardly any people and as such retains a very easy going, island nature, despite the (albeit light) tourism.
Folks are friendly, there are no hassles, nobody is pushy, there are wide green open spaces everywhere. Food and accommodation is reasonably cheap (but internet is damn pricey).
It's a haven, and pretty hard to leave.

Havelock is probably the most socially conducive place in India I have been to.
It's easy to make friends, as spots to eat and congregate are few and it is usually intrepid travellers who end up here.

Evenings spent by fire on the beach with tunes, heady tales of mainland travel and marvelling at the fact that this place is $%&*ing amazing.

Neil Island

After a week of intense diving and a few late nights I decided to retreat for some R&R on Neil Island.
Neil Island is probably the most remote place on earth.
S p a r s e l y populated where time does not exist. There are only 4 (that I could count) choices for accommodation.
I chose Pearl Park, based on recommendations, and found a nice hut with bathroom for Rp250 (AUD$5) per night.
PP is right on the stunning beach, has a nice restaurant, friendly staff, has bikes and scooters, and has the ambience of a secret, hazy tropical island (which is exactly what Neil is).

I had lunch at the gorgeous Green Park restaurant:
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The proprietor grows all of his own fruit and veg, and had fresh fish delivered in the morning.
I think he had a fresh batch of charras delivered too - as once he served my delicious fish and chips, the hazy scent lingered in the air.

I hired a motorbike to ride around. The scenery felt calm yet dramatic:
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Like it's sister islands, Neil is lush, sparse, quiet, friendly and feels like a secret best kept.

Bye Andamans

The Andaman Islands were an amazing suprise. They are like no other place I have visited.
As India closely guards them from any landings from closer neighbours Burma or Thailand. The fact also that they are so far from mainland India means that they are, and feel remote.
The ethnic tribes of Northern Andaman are able to sustain their way of life without any interruption and barely any interaction with mainstream society here.
I hope these islands don't open up to development.
There are murmurs about opening Port Blair to international flights from Thailand.
Locals, even in tourism don't seem pleased with the prospect, and are certainly happy with the way things are.

Please enjoy my photos of the breathtaking Andamans here

Posted by SkinnyFists 07.05.2012 22:53 Archived in India Tagged havelockindia_beachesandaman_islandsscuba_diving_india Comments (0)

India: OSHO!

A tale of my journey towards Zen....

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Osho

Background

If you don't know about the late Osho, he was a controversial guru who formed a unique brand of anti religious Zen Buddhism (not oxymoron) combined with Zorban philosophical pragmatism. On this platform he developed programs of meditation, free thought, discourses, lectures, activities etc at successful ashrams here in Pune and the US.
He endeared himself to the spiritual masses and subsequently made an ENORMOUS fortune!
At one point Osho owned the world's largest fleet of (at peak 93) Rolls Royces, one of which still sits in the Pune Meditation Resort
He published over 600 works on meditation, relationships, spirituality, etc.

Having experienced his meditation teachings, his amazing "ashram", and seeing the man speak and engage (albeit through video recordings), I have to say he was one of the most interesting, informed, aware and charismatic individuals I have ever umm, encountered.
No wonder he had/has/will have so many followers!

Wikipedia entry:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osho_(Bhagwan_Shree_Rajneesh)

Osho Meditation Resort

To be clear this is not an ashram. It is indeed a resort. The facilities are fantastic (swimming pool, gym, internet cafe, restaurants, etc), and there are not many rules.
The main meditation hall is almost indescribable. Like a cross between an Egyptian pyramid and the Tyrel Corporation building in Blade Runner.

You feel an enormous sense of occasion as you walk towards it - very effective for the meditations.
Inside the enormous main hall, the entire floor is a calming, cooling deep green MARBLE.
See the tour of this wondrous building here.

The surrounding gardens and parks, all owned (and subsequently bequeathed) by Osho are stunningly gorgeous.

There is a smaller meditation room that was Osho's private hall. His ashes are also there.
This room is grandiose in every sense of the word.
To reach it, you must pass through his private library and an odd room with a dentist chair.
Then, pass into the meditation hall. A large, perfectly circular room with 100% white marble and the absolute epitome of meditative opulence.
The ceiling is lined with an inner circle of crystals entwined with lights, which brings even more calming ambience to the room.
It has a very amazing energy. During some of the chanting and vocal meditations, the room acts as an attenuator and amplifier of sound - enhancing the the synergy of meditation practice.
It is indeed an place - fitting for the type of man I understand Osho to have been.

Registration

When we arrived, we had to fill in a series of forms, and take an on the spot HIV test in a small room adjoining the registration hall.
The gentleman doing the test was a registered nurse and the needles are sterilised / only used once.
I quizzed the officials, on the impetus behind the test. They could only answer that Osho wanted it, and this will never change.
Being issued a meditation pass is indication of the test proving negative.
WIthin 10 minutes we collected our passes and then went to buy our robes.
It is mandatory for all attendees at Osho to wear a red robe during the day, and a white robe for the evening meeting.
I couldn't find a concrete explanation for the choice of colours - though white in the evening session made sense that I can't put into words.

Meditations

All meditations are very unique and different. Nothing like any that I have experienced before.
This was my first experience of expressive meditation (voice, movement/dance, shaking etc), though I have to say each was very effective indeed.

I participated just about all of the meditations on offer (daily) at the resort.
You can see how they all work, with detailed instructions and videos within this main site.

Though each were so very different experiences, after each I felt complete elation and slightly dazed. Like my world had been renewed.
This was especially true for the Kundalini - where everyone leaving the hall were rosy cheeked and grinning like Cheshire cats.
Interestingly I saw a band back in Goa called Kundalini Airport…. totally understand that name now :-)

Evening Meeting

A highlight of the day!
The meeting begins with everyone seated quietly in Osho's main Tyrel Corp mediation hall.

Welcoming Dance

Then, either the awesome house band, or some recorded music will start playing.
The piece is usually the same - an uplifting melodic, rhythmic piece that brings you very naturally into dance.
This is the time to be free - dance, jump, flail, express. The wave of energy reverberates from the marble floor and walls and you will join in!
One 3 occasions the music stops, and everyone will scream OSHO, then continue dancing with the music.
At the last stop, we scream OSHO! three times and then sit for the discourse.

Discourse

Warning: some of Osho's strong anti-religious sentiment is relayed here.

During Osho's time as a living guru, much of his discourses were video recorded. Subsequent to his passing, the recorded discourses are played to continue the tradition.
Osho gave hundreds, if not thousands of discourses.

During our stay - Osho's discourses focused on the murder of a Catholic Trappist monk, Thomas Merton who wished to study with Zen masters in Japan, but was "inexplicably" murdered in Bangkok after asking the Vatican for permission to go.

This story provided a platform for Osho to very eloquently, and elaborately assert that organised religion is (to paraphrase) :

….nothing but murderous controlling corporations using fairy tale stories/rules/fear/false consequence to control the masses! These religions are all failing, sinking and imploding into irrelevance! They scamper for validity and will even murder their own, if threats such as Zen individualism could possibly be endorsed by their own leaders.

Some other points and paraphrased quotes I took from Osho's dialog:

  • As more westerners explore Buddhism and Zen thought, western religions will eventually be ignored, as they are no longer relevant.
  • Zen is the only path - think for yourself, delve into the deep consciousness, explore the deep freely.
  • When you take God out of the equation, none of these religions hold relevance. There is nothing for them to cling to.
  • There is no God, only beautiful nothingness, a void to fill as your own. What was this God busy doing before the Earth was created? What kind of person believes in an immaculate conception? In heaven and hell? These are simply fairy tales written by imaginative poets, and taken as tools to control you!
  • You cannot control a man of Zen.
  • Life is not an experience. The word 'experience' implies finality. There is no finality! We are always experiencing; flowing, continuing, aware, moment to moment; in this body, the next and the next!
  • Before taking the next birth we choose our womb. Choose the womb that will give you freedom in the next life. Your last thought in this life, will be the first thought when you develop in the next. Make free will your dying thought and it will become the first idea you formulate in your next life!
  • There is no authority in Zen. When a Zen master teaches, he will eventually move out of the student's path - so they can go deeper on their own and experience.
  • You cannot teach Zen, only guide the path. Zen must be discovered. Christianity does not understand this!

They don't allow their students to progress or even think for themselves - they teach autocratically. This is not teaching.

  • If Thomas Merton was a man of Zen he would not have asked to go to Japan! He would have simply gone! He was under control of Christianity, he was scared to think and act for himself.

He did not understand Zen to begin with, and would have only learnt theoretically - not experientially. This is not the Zen experience!

Osho's written summary of this discourse can be found here

To conclude the discourse, Osho always tells a joke to end on a lighter note. These were always lengthy with a cheesy punchline.
After all, enlightenment doesn't have to be serious!

It was a fascinating, occasionally humorous, and well thought out series diatribes. Osho was absolutely one of the most engaging characters and speaker I have witnessed.

Osho's dialog is clear, concise, intelligent, sometimes wry, cheeky and often induced laughter and cheers in the hall.
He is scathing of Christianity, sometimes of Hinduism, and definitely of India's materialism -even though he did own 93 Rolls Royces ;-)

Before moving on the the final meditation, everyone in the hall expresses gibberish - say everything you ever wanted to say, but felt you couldn't…. but in a foreign or make-up language - express loudly and fervently!

After roughly 3 minutes Osho indicates time for final mediation, and participants lie down exactly where they are and be still…

Final Meditation and Dance

Ignorance has no beginning, but an end. Enlightenment has a beginning but no end.

Osho's final meditation is moving, inspiring and renewing.
A paraphrase would not do justice here, but by the end, you have found and inner peace within the deep and glorious nothingnessssss…
You have returned to your.... original face. The most recognisable face in all of the of the East…. the face of Gautama Buddha.

Of course, there is a concluding round of dancing and rejoicing before returning to the world, renewed.

Departing thoughts

When I left Osho after 4 glorious days of meditation - I found an inner peace, power and glow, and an intensity that I felt only several times in this life Osho; the meditation, resort and rhetoric obviously isn't for everyone, but I got a lot out of it.

If you are interested in Osho, the Meditation Resort, meditations, Osho's rhetoric, discussions, etc then the website is very comprehensive.

OSHO! website
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Pune

Of course, we are in Pune - and there is more to Osho in this lovely town!
Pune is easily the most affluent, and liberal city I've experienced in India so far.
The streets leafy and reminiscent of posh South Yarra in my home city, there is plenty of finer dining and most locals wear western clothing.
Bars are filled with men and women drinking joyously!
Everyone in Pune seems to speak English as a primary language. Every restaurant, internet cafe, etc was filled with locals chattering in English!

One night I went to meet Ana at a restaurant, wearing my South Indian mundu.
The the guy at the door looked at me in disgust, and spoke to me in Hindi (thinking I wasn't educated to speak English), indicating I couldn't enter dressed as I was (at least I passed for Indian, finally!). I replied in Queen's English that I was joining a friend for dinner and that actually a mundu is indeed appropriate dress anywhere, even Pune!
The surprised doorman apologised and took me to Ana's table.

We visited a shopping centre that was oh so fancy, and met a lady who helped us find a cinema. We went to see House Full 2, a big Bollywood extravaganza - with HUGE singing, dancing and super high tech fight scenes - all in Hinglish!

We left Pune, enlightened on an AC bus, bound for Aurangabad to see the Ellora Caves…

Posted by SkinnyFists 07.05.2012 05:28 Archived in India Tagged zenpuneoshoindia_meditationatheism Comments (0)

Budget accommodation in India

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

India: Pondi to Pune

Tale of an epic yet cruise-y journey across the country en route to Osho.

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Pondi to Pune

I felt my South Indian journey was drawing to a fitting close.
I'd heard so many different accounts and rumours about Osho; the man, the myth, unique meditation practices, and his opulent ashram........
It would be a missed opportunity not to go to Pune.

Fellow intrepid traveller and dudette was also curious enough to make the long journey and check out Osho.
We had an interesting time on motorbike trying to find Pondi train station to get tickets, as we had both arrived by bus.
Getting lost in a city is a great way to discover it. We met some interesting characters whilst asking for directions - and when goras are cruising back streets (albeit looking lost), locals seem to find humour and delight - saying hello, smiling and waving and occasionally asking for their picture to be taken.

No tickets available for tomorrow… but an early start the next day enabled us to get TAKTAL (2AC seats) for the 25 hour train journey leaving the following - from Chennai to Pune.

From Pondi to Pune it is roughly a 30(!) hour journey (not including wait times between bus and train)

Chennai Stop

First - a 4 hour air con bus ride ride to Chennai where we met Ana's Indian pal, Mukesh. He took us to Chennai beach for sunset.
It was a really nice stop.
Chennai beach isn't exactly Goa or Varkala - the water is horribly polluted and the sand is browny-grey.
However, the atmosphere is great!! Lots of food stalls - chilly corn, cooked fish, popcorn, ice cream… and smiling folks everywhere playing music full blast, distorting from their mobiles phones, taking photos (Indian's love photos, and are photogenic); unwinding from their day of work or study.
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Train to Pune

Waiting for the epic train near Chennai Central:
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At 22:30 our train to Pune departed Chennai Central. We had 2AC seats so had plenty of space to sleep and reeeelax.
One of the fellows in the berth opposite was a fierce snorer and I had to wake him up a few times to try and get him to lie in a different position.
The horrid fables about Indian trains told by those who haven't been here are largely untrue.
As long as you book an AC seat the toilets are routinely cleaned (often there is a western style available), as are the berths (even mopped every 8 hours or so), and passengers get fresh linen upon arrival.

Lunch and dinner are served on the train (or you have 15 minutes at major stops to get off and find something). We didn't have much choice; Thali or Biryani. We got one of each and shared - for both meals.

We arrived in Pune late and found a nice hotel easy enough - this one had an Osho book store attached.

We registered for Osho the next the morning...

Posted by SkinnyFists 07.05.2012 03:50 Archived in India Tagged chennaipunetrains_indiaindia_beaches Comments (0)

India: Pondicherry and The Great Escape

I, South Indian: my account of adventures in Pondi & Auroville, plus adoption traditional south India dress and a frantic escape from tidal wave threat.

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Pondi

Pondicherry is a French flavoured town (a French colony until recently), with some nice grandiose architecture, happy vibe and great food.
Being part of Tamil Nadu, the folks are staunchly pround of their ancient dravidian language, Tamil, and as such it is rare to find a Hindi speaker here.

Journey

I left Sivananda feeling great and ready to take on a new world.
Took the bus down to Trivandrum and booked a flight to Chennai, then found very agreeable air conditioned lodgings close to the bus stop.
A quick 1 hour flight across Kerala and Tamil Nadu took me to the lightly chaotic Chennai airport. The bus to Pondicherry was LONG!
First I took the local bus to the main bus terminal (1 hour), and then the Pondi bound bus - which was a 4.5 hour dusty sweaty ride, but so much to see and hear along the way. It was an interesting trip!

Discovering Pondicherry

Got to Pondi later in the evening, and stayed at Kailash Guesthouse (really gorgeous place, run by the kindest fellas in Tamil Nadu)

The next day my travel comrade, Ana and I found a motorbike, and set off to visit Auroville.
Auroville is an international community (80 nations are represented), who are almost completely self sufficient. The farms and estates are quite spread out, so it was difficult to engage with anyone there, or get a real feel for the place - but it was a gorgeous ride through the swaying palms and desert.
On the way back, we looked for a nice beach to swim - but sadly the east side beaches are not a patch on west side!

THe next day, sometime afar lunch I got a perturbing text from a friends back in Sivananda....
Apparently an 8.7 earthquake had hit Indonesia, and a series of quakes and all coast lines facing the Indian Ocean were on high alert - with Chennai / Pondi being a particular worry.
Fear mildy set in, and Ana hit the panic button!

First we went to the travel agent next to the hotel, to look at trains or buses out of the danger area. The agent merely laughed and said "the wave will be here at 4:30, what can you do? hehehe". His assistants also found our panic amusing.
We decided to use our bike to reach safer and higher ground,
Also staying at our hotel, was a young German fella. Since we only had a small scooter, I told him to quickly go and hire one and he could follow us.
He returned in less than a minute, saying they would not give him a bike without a licence (my Australian drivers licence sufficed).
After quick assessment, I said he could ride with us.

So, the 3 of us squashed on to the little scooter armed only with essentials (money, passports, change of undies), and I drove us through Pondi, and out on to the freeway heading north west.
Initially the extra weight made it difficult to navigate the bike.
Dear Ana, in a mild panic would gently gesture - "we can go just a bit faster right?"
I had to reply calmly - "no, if we need to break suddenly, this is the top speed with the extra weight, it's going to be OK!"

Along the way we stopped and asked locals what they thought… "Pondi dangerous… veeery much danger there, you must go"… oh sh*t… we drove roughly 50kms inland before reaching a jam packed town (we didn;t find out exactly which one) where locals looked at us and smiled cheered, like the circus had come to town.It was pretty funny.

We stopped for fuel, and to assess the situation online via my Kindle.
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It seems by then, India had reduced the alert, and there was no danger.
I took some time to prepare myself for the drive home, and drove us to Pondicherry - eventually safe and sound.
Some nice pho at a local Vietnamese restaurant calmed our nerves and renewed our strength. An eventful day indeed!

Traditional Dress

At this stage of the trip, I am starting to feel Indian. I can my English to the local dialects, use local mannerisms, have perfected the head waggle etc.
It is time to dress as Indians do, especially South India.
Ana had bought a gorgeous sari to wear, I decided to be a real South Indian and buy a mundu.
These are wraps worn around the waste, kind of like a sarong, and are particularly "cooling" in the hot weather.
We found a gentlemen's clothing shop, and I found MY mundu after trying on a few.

Brazilian and Australian South Indians:
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We went to the market in "traditional dress", and for the most part folks delighted in seeing goras dressed as locals.
I was hoping to go unnoticed, this would really prove my becoming Indian - I pass for Indian most of the time, but somehow they knew :-)

Friendly flower seller at the market:
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Bye Pond

Pondi is a nice, busy and vibrant place to stop.

Bustling Pondi:
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Commuting (on bicycle or motorbike) is a little more chaotic than usual. The people are nice, the food is great - but don't come here for the coast.

Tamglish

One of the greatest memories of Pondi is of the wonderful old man who works at Kailash. He is an impassioned speaker of TAMenglish. English, with Tamil grammar.
He speaks this way with such confidence, that he is sure of being grammatically correct and that he should be understood.
Though we clearly did understand each word he spoke, the message was a complex and indecipherable jumble.

He us in stitches as he tried to give us directions on many occasions:
"2 you are going left side, then straight going, cutting 1,2,3,4 then coming right side going, church passing then left side going, and straight stopping… OK?! Are you listening?"

In the morning he would say:
"late last night 2 coming back 1 o'clock going? drinks are having on the roof, till what time? Nice German girls going, 2am I hear walking for bed ahah!"

George Lucas based all of his star wars races and characters on different peoples of our earth - Yoda was surely based on the old wise Indian men of Tamil Nadu.

You can see all of my photos from Pondi and surrounds here

Until next time... om shanti!

Posted by SkinnyFists 02.05.2012 00:20 Archived in India Tagged pondicherryscooteraurovilletamil_nadumunduearthquake_indiaindian_traffic Comments (1)

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